Sunday, July 26, 2015

WHAT ACID SHOULD I USE? DIFFERENCES BETWEEN SALICYLIC AND GLYCOLIC ACIDS


Glycolic Acid is the most active and beneficial of the Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids (AHA) in skin care and is made from sugar canes. It is the only AHA which is able to penetrate through the cell walls by virtue of its small molecular size. Once inside the cell, it will trigger new formation of collagen and turn on the synthesis of dermal glycosaminoglycans to plump up the cell and the ground substances in the skin to reduce wrinkles on the skins surface.

 Glycolic Acid also affects the newly forming keratin cells at the bottom of the stratum corneum causing the bulk of the stratum corneum to lift off and separate from the underlying skin. It can be the most irritating acid, but can also give th skin a much smoother look and feel.  Glycolic acid can be found in a serum or a cleanser.

Salicyclic acid this is the only acid that can penetrate oil.  It is oil-soluable.  All other acids are water soluable.  Salicylic acid can reach inside a pore and exfoliate the lining of the pore wall.  This loosens and allows the contents of the pore to flow out more freely.  If you have a lot of oil, the oil will flow out more freely.  You are less likely to get hardened blackheads, the stubborn ones that are lodged inside the pore and won’t come out.

Salicylic acid is a mild acid that works as a keratolytic agent it encourages the sloughing of dead skin cells. It's a safe, effective treatment for mild acne, oily skin, textural changes and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in people of most skin types. Mild acid solutions, such as salicylic acid and glycolic acid, encourage the peeling of the top layer of skin and the opening of plugged follicles, which helps reestablish the normal skin-cell replacement cycle. For milder acne, salicylic acid helps unclog pores to resolve and prevent lesions. It does not have any effect on the production of sebum or the presence of  P. acnes bacteria. Like many other topical acne treatments, salicylic acid must be used continuously, even after acne lesions have healed. Its effects stop when you stop using it, so your skin will return to its uneven shedding; pores become clogged, and acne returns.

The biggest difference between the two hydroxy acids (BHAs and AHAs) is their lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are water soluble and Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are oil soluble. BHAs are able to penetrate deeper into the pore, which contains sebum and helps to control exfoliation of the dead skin cells that build up inside the pore. Salicylic Acid is the only BHA known for the treatment of acne and acne-prone skin types.

Talk to your trusted and trained esthetician to see which acid is best suitable for your skin.
Any questions, please feel free to contact me at danaface12@yahoo.com or (805) 496-2466).

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